The Secrets of our Craft

From design to shipping around the world, 3 to 6 months are necessary to carry out all of the different stages.

Each step requires knowledge and skills that only experience can provide.

Design

Inspired by anything and everything, our designers first create the pattern or sketch. Then a drafter adapts, re-works and modifies them with a computer, preparing the necessary files

The pointeur traces the paths of the threads and defines each thread position, for each movement of the loom.

StipplingStippling

Once encoded , the puncher will create the jacquard cards.  Today new technology has helped our ancestral craftsmanship adapt and the computer controlled looms no longer need the cards.

Perforated CardsPerforated Cards

Preparation

A series of bobbins (from 100 to 300) are each filled with about 100 meters of thread. This step requires a very high level of skill and several months of training.

Filling bobbinsFilling bobbins

The uniformity of the thickness of the bobbins is ensured by applying pressure to the filled bobbins. Then they are placed in an oven for 80 minutes at a temperature of 100 to 120°C.   After each bobbin is placed on a cart, it is the job of the Roll Mechanic to thread the cones with the necessary material based on the design to be produced on the loom.  There are about 4,500 threads coming from these bobbins to make the ground of the lace.

The Warper prepares the chain, gimp and whip rolls. The set contains 10,000 threads, divided on rolls found below the loom. The gimp and whip threads weave the pattern of the lace

 

Production

The Loom “conductor” ensures that all elements of the loom are in working order. The mechanic ensures the maintenance of the loom: change of gears, adjustment of frames, proper placement of threads, refills, repairs, thread-breakage. He/she is the Supervisor of the production quality.

ProductionProduction

The greige lace, after taken off of the loom, is examined for any defects, which will be marked and repaired during the quality control process.

Quality ControlQuality Control

Dyeing

The lace is washed before being placed on a moving frame through an oven at temperatures between 190° and 210° C to make it stable or thermo framed.  Once cooled, the lace is able to be dyed if needed in 1 or more colors from optic white to black as per the client’s request. Drying and framing are essential for ensuring that the lace is long-lasting and retains its shape and dimensions.

Finishing

The connection threads between designs or “floating threads” will be hand cut. The final stage is scalloping to cut the pieces of lace following the edges and creating the “eyelashes”, a characteristic of the Leavers lace.

Floating ThreadsFloating Threads

 

ScallopingScalloping

Embellishment

Solstiss lace can be re-embroidered with beading, paillettes, crystals, beads, sequins  ribbons, feathers and  leather  …. to emphasize the motif , especially desired for Haute Couture and the Entertainment industry.

 re-embroidering lacere-embroidering lace

Folding, shipping

After a final Quality control, the pieces of lace are labeled, folded, packaged and are ready to be shipped all around the world.