The steps leading to manufacturing lace can be divided into four groups : creation, preparation , manufacturing and finishings. From one end to the other of this pattern, the complexity of the tasks involved requires knowledge and skill that only experience provides, and is the essential qualities of the comrades of this industry.
From the sketch to shipment, between four and six months are necessary to carry out all the different steps of a chain in which mastery is part of a culture of excellence.
Go to up
The sketcher creates a design on a piece of tracing paper, works it and modifies it with a computer. Hundreds of designs are created in this way every year.
The sketcher finds their sources through the inspiration gained everywhere and without limits. Their flair allows them to anticipate the specificities of the metiers on which their creations will be weaved.
Takes care of the technical execution of the sketch and prepares the necessary files for production, and card punching. It is the designer who anticipates and adjusts the sweeping of the 10.000 threads present on the leavers, which will then be woven to give birth to lace.
The stippler records all the parameters necessary for making the lace.
Each thread position, at each movement, is stippled with a stylus, and th encoded by a computer which creates the table. This activity disappeared progressively as it was replaced by more efficient computer tools.
Go to up
Card punching is now carried out by a programmable sewing unit which deciphers the data contained on the disk transmitted by the stippler. Nevertheless, there are still card punchers which on their scale to be punched interpret the tavle provided by the stippler. All the cards are then linked by lacing, then processed through the jacquard system.
An ancestral craftmanship knowledge now adapted to new technologies, rising gradually from traditional Leavers to digital Leavers.
The spooler fills series of spools (from 100 to 300) which each contain around 100 meters of thread. This operation requires a very high level of skill and months of training.
The spool presser ensures the thickness regularity of the spools by pressing the series from 3 to 5000 spools. These are then placed in an oven for 80 minutes at a temperature of 100 to 120°.
The reassemble places each spool on a cart.
This operation is carried out by either a personn or an automatic machine.
From the thread "cones", the worker prepares the metier rolls by upholstering them with material bases on the design to be reproduced.
Go to up
The warper prepares the chain, gymp and whip rolls. The set can contain 10.000 threads, divided on rolls set out below the metier. This operation is done at the same time as the spooling.
The implementer takes care of regulating the Jacquard system, fixing the 5000 carts and spools contained in a metier.
The mechanic ensures the maintenance of the metier : change of gears, adjustment of frame, etc...
Go to up
The tulle worker is the leader of the Leavers Loom.
This loom imitates the handmade lace through a structure system. The tulle worker ensures the perfect execution of the mace. He/she maintains and ensures that his/her metier is working in perfect conditions.
The “go-through” or “leavers” looms are more modern today and contain more than the basic characteristics, represented by the cart-spool unit which is the main element. Added to this are two Jacquard systems which control the loom tables. Depending on the complexity of the lace, a 12 speck over 224 inches (5.60 metres) includes over 5300 carts, 10000 chain threads, 1500 whip threads and as many gymps, that is 18300 threads in total.
After verifying the lace, the mender marks and patches any holes made during fabrication.
Dyeing and finish
The washing, de-graphite process rids the lace of graphite or any other dry lubricant used to lubricate the carts.
The pre-setting, for the pieces of lace in synthetic fibres, allows the stabilising of their size thanks to running on the mobile frame in an over at between 190 and 210°. Once cooled, the pieces conserve their shapes and sizes
Dyeing gives the lace either an immaculate white colour or one or often numerous colours depending on the client’s requests.
Drying and farming are essential for ensuring the lace is long-lasting.
Extraction of fibres, spalling, cutting
The fibre extractor, spaller and cutter carry out their operations depending on the type of lace.
The fibre extractor pulls the connections threads in order to separate the lace bars.
The spaller cuts the lace following the outline of the fibre.
The cutting consists in cutting then removing the floating threads which, on the metier, link the patterns which do not touch each other.
Sometimes, lace for making haute-couture dresses is re-embroidered.
This operation emphasises certain designs through the use of drawstrings, gold or thick thread, spangles, beads, etc...
After a final verification control, the pieces are folded, packaged and are ready to be shipped.
The sampler cuts samples which will be part of the manufacturer's collection, and are sent to the sales team or to the client.